Christmas 1992, and your editor finds himself
in Ecuador, up in the top left-hand corner of South America, where
the palms have to be seen to be believed. by Martin Gibbons, Ham Street, Ham, Richmond,
Surrey, TW10 7HA, UK Chamaerops No. 10, published online 23-09-2002
A fine specimen of parajubaea cocoides
Saturday 19th December 1992...
Touched down at 8am at Quito, Ecuador, airport after
a good flight on Air France with one single stop at Caracas, Venezuela.
We (Jacques Deleuze and I) were met by a smiling Brad Carter, until
recently editor of The Palm Journal, magazine of the Southern California
Chapter of the International Palm Society. Quito is one of the highest
capital cities in the world, altitude 2850m above sea level. The
weather is bright and sunny but cool. Went off to pick up the jeep
Brad had organized for us, a Chevrolet Trooper, riot cheap to rent
but perfect for our requirements, with 4-wheel drive. Quito airport
has many Parajubaea cocoides, our first chance to see them in the
flesh. Tall and elegant, with slim trunks with feather leaves with
fine and glossy leaf segments, looking to me like giant Microcoeleum,
(now Lytocaryum) weddellianum. Fab!
Set off, with moi at the wheel, on the right (wrong)
side of the road to a nearby monument called Mitad del Mundo, Centre
of the World, abt.22km out of Quito. Rather presumptious title I
thought. It's a big slabby monument, sort of 1930's Masonic Temple
style, and it sits on the equator (from which Ecuador takes its
name of course), which is paved in a long path, lined with busts
of famous historical Ecuadorians. Posed for photos with one foot
in each hemisphere, then drove on down the same road, west of Quito,
looking for plants. Jacques and Brad, being interested in plants
generally, (as opposed to palms specifically, like me) wanted to
stop every two minutes to check out flowers, and creepers, and climbers
so it turned out to be a long short drive. I was certainly not disappointed
however as we came across Ceroxylon in large measure. They are wonderful
trees with white, ringed trunks and graceful leaves. The further
we went the more we saw, species uncertain unfortunately, often
in the company of other, less readily identifiable palms. The road
was good, and we made many stops to take photos, and examine the
trees through binoculars. J. thought they may be C. quindiuense.
About 1pm decided to head back to Quito, stopping
on the way at a sort of cantina, where tried the local beer, not
at all bad. Saw lots more Parajubaeas on the way, though all were
cultivated; they are not known in the wild. Many if not most have
huge bunches of fruit. Drove to the hotel that Brad arranged, the
Posada Real, and where he's been staying for 2 days. Dropped our
bags here then took a taxi back into town for a late but welcome
lunch. Had hamburger, chips & beer (I always like to sample
the local food). Looked round a famous bookshop, Libri Mundi, then
back to the hotel for a couple of hours' sleep. In the evening went
into town again to a good fish restaurant: mixed seafood all cooked
with garlic, with a nice bottle of local white wine. Excellent!
Back to the hotel in pouring rain, bed by 1 1-ish in quite a comfortable
room.
South American Diary
