South of the hotel was the most perfect crescent
of beach. We decided one overcast morning to wander off to Brufut,
the centre of the Gambian fishing industry. To our left was the
Bijilo Forest Nature Reserve boasting the largest stand of Rhun
(Borassus) Palms left in the country. We passed squid, puffer fish,
and turtle shells washed up on the beach and wondered what was the
difference between flotsam and jetsam.
Brufut Beach Bar was interesting. The bar itself
was a dilapidated, bright blue 1950s touring caravan underneath
a canopy made from hundreds of Borassus leaves. The owner boasted
that the entire thatch had cost him the equivalent of thirty pounds
and that included the cutting and transporting of the leaves and
the construction of the massive awning. I wondered how much the
caravan cost? Sipping cold drinks, we watched women descale fish
and place them to dry in the sun.
Pursued by children, and chatting to adolescents,
we made our way via Ghana Town where the fish is smoked, to Brufut
Village. Maize, cassava, groundnuts and couscous were the principal
staples but rambutans, papaya and numerous other fruits grew in
every compound. After photographing the 25-aside football teams
we took a 'bush taxi' back to the hotel on probably the worst road
in the world.
The Calabash & the Wonjo 
