The Calabash & the Wonjo

(page 6)

Breakfast was taken whilst looking out onto a terrace containing a splendid Kigella or Sausage Tree, an equally gorgeous Traveller's Palm, a Chorisia speciosa or Floss Silk Tree, Coconuts, Bougainvillea and Pritchardia. It was hell.

The Gambia is hot and during our stay the humidity was around 80%. We learned pretty quickly that this is not conducive to outrageous 'English mad dog' activity. The best place to be when the sun is overhead is to be in a hotel room with the curtains drawn, standing under a very powerful fan driven by a 400bhp Pratt and Whitney engine. Failing the availability of such a device, the next best place is under a very large tree. In any village or town, there are usually a number of very large trees, but there is always one that has historically served as the focus for the village social life; a meeting place, which serves as a deliciously cool refuge from the sun.

The four major trees were the Baobab, the Mango, the Silk Cotton and the Flame tree.

The Flame or Flamboyant Tree, Delonix regia, richly deserves its name. It is massive with pinnate leaves bearing up to a thousand leaflets. It bears rich red flowers of mind-boggling beauty. To cap it all, it sports giant dangling, undulating leguminous peapods two feet long. Initially, these are green but open to a brown-black. When dry they rattle if shaken. It was a prominent feature in the gardens of the wealthy. At dusk, we would watch the leaves of the tree in the hotel garden fold up for the night, after which we'd trot off to observe the frantic activity in the Calabash Tree.

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