Our next destination was to be rather different,
well away from the green moist Indian hills, we were headed for
the deserts of Pakistan, not on most peoples' list of favourite
holiday destinations. However, we were not there to holiday. We
were looking for Nannorrhops ritchiana, the Mazari Palm, and Pakistan
is one of the few countries where it grows, and when a palm calls,
we must answer.
19th November. After spending some time in Delhi,
we took a taxi to the airport and caught our plane for Lahore, Pakistan,
where we arrived at 7pm. Changed planes here, and caught another,
for Peshawar, arriving, exhausted, at 10pm. Took a taxi to town
and checked in at the Galaxie Hotel, not too bad, but rather noisy.
However, slept well enough.
20th November. Left the hotel and took a taxi to
the foreign registration office. This is the place to get a permit
to visit the famed Khyber Pass, where Nannorrhops was reported as
growing 100 years ago. Obtained the necessary paperwork, but with
it came a guard with a Kalashnikov rifle who would accompany us
in the taxi, a reminder that we are in a wild country. Drove for
an hour or so, through rather flat, rather dull desert landscape
until we reached the Pass. Though we strained our eyes there was
not a single 'Nanny' to be seen. The view was quite spectacular,
we could see almost into Afghanistan, but disappointing to see no
Nanny's.
Back, then, to the hotel, dropping the guard off
en route, relieved that he hadn't needed to use his rifle. In the
evening went to the cinema! A rather ancient place - goodness knows
what European Health & Safety inspectors would make of it. Saw
probably the very worst film I have ever seen (half of), and delighted
to leave midway. Dinner at a local 'restaurant' then back to the
hotel.
Asia Diary - Part 4
