Parajubaea - Palms with Altitude
(page 2)
The two biggest problems are firstly getting hold
of seeds and secondly germinating them. Cocoides seeds have been
available before and appear regularly in seed catalogues but torallyi
is much more difficult to obtain although the Seed Service does
offer them occasionally. The next problem is germinating them -
they have a low germination rate. It can take anything from six
months to several years.
The seeds of torallyi are extremely large and heavy
- bigger in size than an extra large walnut shell with three distinct
ridges. P. torallyi microcarpa, has much smaller, smoother seeds
with only faint ridges. The hard outer shell - the endocarp - contains
the endosperm from which the seedling germinates. It is important
to leave the whole seed, if fresh, in a warm, dry place for at least
two months before even attempting germination. This allows the endosperm
to loosen from its tough, outer shell and aids germination. The
seeds can be soaked in a weak fungicide for two days and then placed
just below the soil surface in a loose, open mixture, kept moist
in a warm place. It is also possible to break the endocarp with
a hammer or file down the extremely hard, wrinkly shell, making
several wedges in it to allow moisture to enter it to aid germination.
However, be warned that the hammer method may damage the endosperm
if the blow is too hard as I discovered myself with several crushed
seeds flying everywhere, which I promptly ate! The endosperm looks
and tastes like the flesh of a miniature coconut with a sweet, pleasant
taste and it is indeed often found for sale in the open markets
of Ecuador.
My P. torallyi seeds took about a year to germinate.
They are currently growing in a mixture of pure horticultural sand,
bark chippings and perlite in containers measuring six inches diameter
by sixteen inches depth - that's not a typing error, the containers
really are that deep. This is because once the seeds germinate they
send out a strong, penetrating taproot that goes directly downwards
before top growth commences. It is important that the seedlings
have a deep root run and as such specialised container sizes are
almost impossible to obtain, I'd visit a hardware store and buy
some plastic drainpipes. These are then cut to the length required,
with a bottom made up with drainage holes and filled with an extremely
free draining but moisture retentive mixture.
Apart from its unsuitability for container culture
due to its need for an unimpeded root run, the single root system
does not regenerate if damaged so it should never be transplanted
once planted out. However, this has to be weighed against its vulnerability
as a seedling in a cold climate and therefore a three or four foot
plant might be a good size to plant out, with winter protection
should prolonged freezes threaten.
Another limiting factor to successful cultivation
outside its natural habitat is excessive summer heat, and especially
hot or humid nights - day temperatures of 32c (90f) would be too
high. This palm is not adapted to tropical or sub-tropical climates
where it will rot and decline rapidly. The key is cool night temperatures,
which is crucial to strong, vigorous growth. It should be grown
in fertile, well-drained soil in full sun from an early age but
must be carefully acclimatised.
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