21st November. Left sharp at 8am in a rented car-and-driver
for our 3 day trip to what we hope will be Nanny-land. Left Peshawar
in the direction of Attock, passed through Nowshera to the Indus
river, from there to Pindigheb where we had a poor lunch, then via
Talagan to Mianwali where we are staying at the Faizal Hotel, not
too bad and quite cheap at 150 rupees/night. 22nd November. Up at
7, breakfast at 8, left at 8.30. Back down the same road but turned
off in the direction of Chiddru, but unfortunately the road ended
there (our map left something to be desired) and after consultation
with some villagers, back-tracked, then on to Qualdabad, thence
towards Sakesur, our first goal. The road was in a good state and
after a few miles, it began to climb until we were high above the
flat plain below. We were in the Salt Range of mountains and after
climbing still higher, we came across our first Nannorrhops ritchiana
in the wild. There were a few plants, growing at some distance from
the road, the driver must have thought we were quite insane as we
raced off to examine them. About 6 feet tall, with incredibly thick
and leathery leaves, a pale blue/green in colour, growing in extremely
arid conditions. Beautiful, at least to our eyes! After taking some
photos we drove on, passing lots more plants and after they began
to peter out, drove back to the best specimens where we stopped
for an hour or so, taking photos and measurements and generally
enjoying ourselves. After this, we attempted to continue on down
the same road but we were stopped at some kind of road block and
were told by the soldier who was manning it that we could not drive
further, but would have to go back the way we had come. We never
found out the reason, but didn't mind too much as it gave us the
opportunity to go past the Nanny's again. Drove all the way back
to Quaidabad, thence to Khushab where we decided to pass the night.
Bad hotel, rather dirty, rather cheap.
23rd November. Up at 7, quick wash and out of this
disgusting place. Skifezza! Headed towards Naushara on a good, double
road. Hit the Salt Range again, and climbed to 850m but no sign
of more Nannorrhops, despite a thorough search. The scenery was
spectacular though with red rocks against a cloudless blue sky.
Asia Diary - Part 4
